Climbing this Monday was fun...I had been feeling a bit disconnected and still was on Monday but I went anyway in hopes of just following through. I got there a bit late and my friends were already climbing but had just started. Pal walked me through setting up the anchor and how to setup the auto-block which we would use for the rappel.

Inventory

- One big sling with a locking biner
- One cord w/
- ATC w/ biner

The big sling is then girth hitched through the top and bottom loops of your harness

The biner from the big sling is then clipped through the lower off and locked

Good night climbing on Wednesday... I was really feeling disconnected from climbing since I hadn't been for a week or so...I ended up getting there early and got a few belay's from a friend I met at yoga.

Lead Climbs

5.7+

Real easy climb, nice warm-up

5.8

While the climb was easy I thought the third clip was a bit tough for an 5.8. I chose to climb above the clip and then make it and it was a committing move.

5.8+

Fitting title last nights climbing session as it seemed like so many problems required the 'dropped knee'. For all of you non-climbers out there dropping the knee often puts one in a more advantageous position for being able to get to the next hold.

I met Pal at about ten past 7 and we started off bouldering.

Warm-ups

v0
v0
v1

No problem on the warm ups so I moved on to some tougher problems. Pal had been there for a bit so I was trying to catch up to him :).

v2 Green

Climbing last night was just great. I got there at 7:20 sharp and met Pal and Liam. They got right to it as I got my shit together.

5.8+ White

Nice lead and good warm up. I was a bit skeptical on starting with this one but it was a good route and went just fine.

5.9 Yellow(?)

I think this was a 9- but don't remember now. I do remember it being pumpy and a bit tricky around the second clip. I moved through this one fairly gracefully.

5.10a Black

Great time climbing in Lincoln Woods yesterday (April 18, 2009). I came away OK but my left shoulder is pretty sore. I think I overdid it on the Wave Boulder.

Routes Completed

Best Kept Secret

1. Trouble Ahead - V1 *
Start squatting with hands matched on flake in crack. Move up and left to hrizontal shelf, then up and right to a hidden pocket at lip. Crux is manteling to topout.
2. Easy Crack, V0-
Start as for Trouble Ahead, but climb up and right, following crack to top of boulder. the boulder.
3. Immaculate Arete - V1 **